Nothing is better for building an awesome cycling holiday around than a destination wedding invitation to Bordeaux. As veterans of six previous trips across Europe—cycling through Scotland, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, France, and Czechia—we got pretty excited. Inspired by friends’ photos and rave reviews of the Dordogne, we booked a seven-day tour to explore its famed vineyards and ancient castles before the big day.
When I started researching, I was surprised how little useful information is out there. I was looking for advice on the best cycle routes in Bordeaux and The Dordogne, and came up blank. As a Strava early adopter, I love to trawl through other people’s routes to plan my next adventure (not in a creepy way!). So, to help others, here is the detailed breakdown of one of our favourite trips to date. Click through to see the scenery, the routes, and get inspired.
In this post:
Self Guided Bike Tour Summary
| Day | Route | Distance | Elevation | Accommodation |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arrival in Bordeaux | – | – | Hotel de Normandie |
| 2 | Bordeaux to Saint-Émilion | 54.70 km | 291 m | Auberge de la Commanderie |
| 3 | Saint-Émilion to Sainte-Foy-la-Grande | 43.18 km | 137 m | Grand Hôtel |
| 4 | Sainte-Foy-la-Grande to Bergerac | 39.70 km | 231 m | Hotel de Bordeaux |
| 5 | Bergerac to Les Eyzies | 63.26 km | 419 m | Hostellerie Le Passeur |
| 6 | Les Eyzies to Sarlat | 25.45 km | 338 m | Hotel le Compostelle |
| 7 | Sarlat to Souillac | 33.65 km | 121 m | Pavillon St Martin |
Know Before You Go: Insider Tips
- The Backstory: This cycling adventure was the perfect way for us to unwind and explore the French countryside before attending our nephews wedding at La Cannonerie.
- Booking Local: We booked our tour from Australia but made a point of using a local Bordeaux-based tour company, Evazio. Their local knowledge was invaluable, and everything from the route planning to the luggage transfers was seamless.
- Rider Levels: I’m a regular cyclist back home in Australia, but my wife typically only rides an e-bike once a year (and she doesn’t do domestic). This route was perfectly manageable for both of us, proving it’s a great trip for couples with different experience levels.
- Gear & Equipment: We upgraded to a gravel for me and ebike for Julie but brought our own helmets and pedals for comfort and familiarity. While helmets were available, having your own is always a good idea. The bikes came with high-quality panniers, which were essential for stashing water, snacks, and, most importantly, the occasional bottle of wine picked up at a château along the way!
- Beating the Heat: We cycled in July, and it was consistently hot, with temperatures reaching up to 40°C. The trade-off was that we had no rain. Our strategy was to start early each morning to get the bulk of our riding done before the intense afternoon heat set in.
Day 1: Arrival in Bordeaux
- Effort: Easy (Exploration on foot)
- Accommodation: Hotel de Normandie | Rated 8.2/10 (Very Good)
- Route Highlights: UNESCO World Heritage architecture, walking the banks of the Garonne river.
We spent a few days in Bordueaux in the lead up. It could be one of my favourite cities in France. We booked a half day wine tour at the tourist information across from out hotel. We chose to go the Medoc region as we were heading to St Emilion on our bikes. Wine tasting was a major theme of this trip.
Insider Tip: Canelés (a local pastry) are so overrated. Save your euros and try the Le Bar à Vin wine bar. Just near our first nights accomodation and great value.
Day 2: Bordeaux to Saint-Émilion Cycling Route
- Distance: 54.70 km | Elevation Gain: 291 m
- Effort: Easy / Moderate
- Accommodation: Auberge de la Commanderie, St Emilion | Rated 9.1/10 (Superb)
- Route Highlights: Roger Lapébie cycle track, the bastide village of Creon, UNESCO World Heritage vineyards.
Our first proper day of cycling began by leaving the city buzz of Bordeaux behind. TBH it was pretty frenetic as we came head on to cycling peak hour. Once we crossed the river riding was more civilised. We rode along the Garonne and crossed the historic Pont de Pierre to connect with the Roger Lapébie cycle track—a fantastic, car-free greenway built on an old railway line that takes you deep into the Entre-Deux-Mers region. It was a day of great scenery and bike trails.
Insider Tip: The route takes you through the charming bastide village of Creon. We got lucky and found it was market day! It was the perfect unplanned stop to soak up some local life and grab some fresh produce for the ride.
Day 3: Saint-Émilion to Sainte-Foy-la-Grande Cycling Route
- Distance: 43.18 km | Elevation Gain: 137 m
- Effort: Easy
- Accommodation: Grand Hôtel, Ste Foy La Grande | Rated 8.1/10 (Very Good)
- Route Highlights: UNESCO World Heritage vineyards, Castillon-la-Bataille, Dordogne river.
Leaving the charming cobbled streets of Saint-Émilion, today was all about the vines. This stage took us right through the heart of the prestigious Saint-Émilion vineyards. After passing through Castillon-la-Bataille, the route joins the banks of the Dordogne river. Compared to all the other towns on the trip Saine-Foy-la-Grande was a misnomer. A once grand town that is getting tatty around the edges.
Wine Lover’s Tip: Plan ahead as we went to the tourist information at St Emilion for advice. They recommend a wine bar two doors up. We tasted some fabulous wines at eye watering prices.
Day 4: Sainte-Foy-la-Grande to Bergerac Cycling Route
- Distance: 39.70 km | Elevation Gain: 231 m
- Effort: Easy
- Accommodation: Hotel de Bordeaux, Bergerac | Rated 8.4/10 (Very Good)
- Route Highlights: Pays Foyen countryside, Château de Monbazillac, Bergerac old town.
This was a fascinating day of contrasts. From Sainte-Foy-la-Grande which felt a bit “down on its luck,” while Bergerac was buzzing with energy. The route itself takes you through lovely countryside towards the impressive Château de Monbazillac. We couldn’t resist a “cheeky wine tasting,” which was a perfect break before the final push into Bergerac, a designated “City of Art and History.”
Unfortunately this was the day the heat really got to us we had to retreat back to the hotel and pool. I had to make some unscheduled visit to the local bike shop for some running repairs. This was the only hotel that did not let us in the room early.
Insider Tip: The Château de Monbazillac is well worth the stop, not just for the informative museum and wine but for the incredible views over the valley from its terrace. Its marked as optional on the route but should be mandatory.
Day 5: Bergerac to Les Eyzies Cycling Route
- Distance: 63.26 km | Elevation Gain: 419 m
- Effort: Moderate
- Accommodation: Hostellerie Le Passeur, Les Eyzies | Rated 8.8/10 (Excellent)
- Route Highlights: Lalinde canal, Vézère Valley, prehistoric sites.
This was the biggest day of the trip so far. The route begins along a lovely cycle track on the Lalinde canal before leaving the Dordogne to follow its tributary, the Vézère. This marks your entry into the “Black Périgord” and the “Valley of Humankind,” leading to Les Eyzies, the world capital of prehistory.
Insider Tip: This was a longer, hot day. We left early (for France) to make it to Les Glycines a wonderful Michelin starred restaurant. Every day we packed a change of clothes in our panniers and this was the day it mattered.
Day 6: Les Eyzies to Sarlat Cycling Route
- Distance: 25.45 km | Elevation Gain: 338 m
- Effort: Easy/Moderate (the deviation, heat and unexpected hill)
- Accommodation: Hotel le Compostelle, Sarlat | Rated 8.8/10 (Excellent)
- Route Highlights: Vézère Valley prehistoric sites, Lascaux Caves (optional), Sarlat medieval city.
This stage is a journey through time, following the Vézère Valley past numerous prehistoric sites. We had an unexpected “deviation due to a local motor derby,” which is all part of the adventure! Our destination, Sarlat, is the gastronomic capital of Périgord Noir. It’s a stunningly preserved medieval city that was overrun by tourists, but its beauty is undeniable.
Traveler’s Note: Be prepared for crowds in Sarlat, especially during peak season. It’s incredibly popular for a reason—the architecture is a true jewel of the region.
Day 7: Sarlat to Souillac Cycling Route
- Distance: 33.65 km | Elevation Gain: 121 m
- Effort: Easy
- Accommodation: Pavillon St Martin, Souillac | Rated 8.7/10 (Excellent)
- Route Highlights: Dordogne Valley, beautiful bike trail.
Our final day of riding was a perfect farewell to the Dordogne. It was a super easy day mainly along a wonderful bike trail. This purpose-built cycle path follows the river, offering beautiful, tranquil scenery without the stress of traffic. It was a relaxed spin, allowing us to soak in the last of the French countryside before arriving in Souillac, where we would spend two nights.
Foodie Finale: As a friend commented on my ride, cycling in this region certainly builds “more than enough appetite for local duck (fois gras or Magret) and cassoulet.” I can confirm I ate my body weight in duck products on this trip!
A Note on the Final Day
Our original itinerary included one final day of riding from Souillac to the sacred cliffside village of Rocamadour. However, after six days of cycling in temperatures that often hit 40°C, we decided to take a break and spend our last day relaxing in Souillac instead of tackling the final stage.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. How busy are the roads?
The tour company did an amazing job of keeping us on quiet back roads. We encountered very little traffic, and much of the route is on dedicated, car-free cycle paths.
2. Can you check into the hotels early?
For the most part, yes. We were able to check in early at all our hotels except for the one in Bergerac, which was very accommodating in storing our bags while we explored the town.
3. What are the rental bikes like?
We paid a premium for an upgraded gravel bike and an e-bike, and it was well worth the investment. The bikes were high-quality, well-maintained, and perfect for the terrain.
4. What kind of maps are provided?
We were given a GPS app for our phones, which was excellent. Make sure you have a good phone data plan and a solid connection for your phone on the handlebars.
5. How difficult is the ride?
Overall, not too hard. The days are manageable, and even with the hot weather, the rides were very enjoyable. It’s a great route for cyclists of varying abilities.
6. Any food highlights?
Definitely! The Michelin-starred lunch at Les Glycines in Les Eyzies was a standout. Also, don’t miss the local markets along the way. July is apricot and cherry season, and they were incredible. The tour company also recommended excellent restaurants for dinner each night, and none of them disappointed.
7. Where is the best place for wine tasting?
Saint-Émilion and the Bergerac region are both fantastic. The Château de Monbazillac was an outstanding experience, and we were easily able to carry the wine we bought in our panniers.
8. How does the luggage transfer work?
It was seamless. We just left our bags at the hotel reception each morning, and the tour company (Evazio) made sure they were waiting for us in our room at the next hotel. It makes the cycling completely stress-free.
9. What’s the best time of year to cycle in the Dordogne?
We went in July, which was very hot but guaranteed us sunny days. For cooler weather, I would recommend May, June, or September.
10. Do you need to speak French?
It’s always appreciated if you know a few basic phrases (Bonjour, Merci, Au revoir), but we found that most people in the hotels and larger towns spoke enough English to help us out. Google translate is a travellers friend.
11. What should I pack?
Aside from your usual cycling kit, I’d highly recommend packing lightweight casual clothes for the evenings, sunscreen, and a portable battery pack for your phone, especially since you’ll be using it for navigation.
12. Is it safe to leave your bike while you explore?
The bikes came with high-quality locks, and we had no issues. We felt perfectly safe leaving them locked up outside cafes or shops in the small villages. In the larger towns, we were a bit more cautious and kept them within sight.
Conclusion
From the grand boulevards of Bordeaux to the ancient cliffs of the Vézère and the medieval alleys of Sarlat, cycling through the Dordogne is an unforgettable experience. It’s a journey through history, flavour, and some of the most beautiful cycling routes France has to offer. Whether you’re a seasoned cyclist or just looking for an active holiday, this region delivers at every turn.
